***
Note to readers: we have acquired speedy internet, but at this point we're less than a week away from being back in the states so you'll just have to wait! Also... Zanzibar and the humidity have slowed our metabolic rates to the point that all we can do is cocktail. So there!
***
Day 20 continued:
Deaprt internet cafe. Dark out, and we are hungry. Next door, encounter same French people who were in taxi on way up. Dine with them. Dinner is delicious--- even cheesy niblets and crispy beef in milk. (AKA bread and shredded chedar with thousand island and jerky in white sauce). Ride motorcycles back to convent.
Day 21:
Breakfast. Jam on toast is delicious; fried eggs are not. Juice of the passion fuels our morning hike to Sakharani, where Benedictine monks make wine and Macadamia nuts. Both are delicious. Break into vineyard at urging of specious guide. Vineyard is lovely, and this time crime pays! ack to hotel for dinner alone in convent, accompanied by japanese soap opera on television: "Nani, you can't die! You're moving into a new house tomorrow! Youv'e been looking forward to it for years!" Sadly, Nani is dead.
Day 22:
Walk for 1 hour into town despite Mike's recollection that it takes 30 minutes. Miss meeting with guide Francis (much less specious) and encounter him as we walk into town. Travel to Irente Farm via a mountain and lots of chameleons. Riding chameleons is difficult, but rewarding. Lunch is delicious. Words cannot convey, so instead take some time to imagine:
Yes.... keep thinking.
No, seriously, it was this good. Especially the plum jam and freshly churned butter. WE COULD HEAR THE COW THAT PRODUCED THE BUTTER. DO YOU REALIZE HOW DELICIOUS NOW?!?!?
OK. Maybe you've imagined enough for now. Probably not though.
Afterwards, journey to Irente town and attempt to hand out toys to children. Some children are bullies. Attempt to give less to them. Fail.
Irente viewpoint phenomenal. Walk home great.
Arrive at convent. A gaggle of Germans has descended on hostel and occupies every table in restaurant. Tonight on TV: boxing. The Germans enjoy it. Erin sips her tea judgmentally.
Day 23:
Wake up at 7:00. Breakfast, then walk to road to catch bus.
7:45 -- Wait.... was that our bus?
8:00 -- Was it?
8:05 -- The bus was supposed to come at 8, right?
8:10 -- I mean, it couldn't have been that early, could it?
8:20 -- That was totally our bus. What the hell do we do now?
8:23 -- Well?
8:32 -- Damn it! What an overzealous bus driver! We're not the only ones he missed, I'll tell you that!
8:43 -- Bus arrives.
Upon arrival at Dar, contract taxi to take us to ferry terminal, with stop at ATM. Ferry leaves in 12 minutes. 13 minutes later, arrive at dock. Ferry is miraculously still there. Board boat, despite disbelief and amazement.
Check into hotel upon arrival. Seafood is delicious. Cocktails are delicious. Zanzibar itself.... also delicious.
That night:
Thousands of hungry mosquitos, bedbugs, or other insects feast on our succulent flesh.
Day 24:
Wake up with hundreds of red welts on arms, legs and face. What happen? Erin suspects sheets, so switch hotels to fancier place 20 feet away. Triple room cost, quadruple satisfaction -----> bargain!
First day of scuba-duba. Videos assume more than five instructional dives. We have one. Tomorrow. After the theory section is complete.
Lunch at Mercury's, named for Freddie, born on Zanzibar in the past sometime. Restaurant shares only name with singer, but food is rhapsodic nonetheless. Dinner at 236 Hurumzi--- land of Arabian Nights fantasy and about 530 (ie three) married couples on honeymoon. Dinner is good, sunset is better. Meet someone else crazy enough to document entire trip in audio.
Day 25:
Today. New hotel has delicious breakfast buffet. Standout: chocolate croissant, though cheese omelet is also fabulous. Walk approximately 50 feet north to rent SCUBA gear, then follow instructor 50 feet south to hotel pool for first and only instructional dive. We breathe underwater like the fishes.
Taxi to Mbweni ruins where they assume we're guests because we're white. Ruins good, coctails better. Taxi back requires excellent bargaining tactics including the walk-away. Achieve desired price outcome. Dinner tonight at family-run place with lots of nibbles, hopefully no niblets.
More scubaduba tomorrow. Also spice tour, sunset dhow cruise and dinner with swahili serenade?
Maybe we'll never leave...........
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Africa: conquered!
***Note to readers***
Our apologies for the lack of posted pictures and sound. Internet here is too slow/expensive to update at this time. Should we miraculously encounter fast internet while on this continent, sights and sounds will be available. Otherwise, please maintain patience until we safely return to the states.
***Thank You!***
Day 10:
Left Arusha and the SG hotel (along with its French moulding and gawking wait staff) behind to head for Ngorongoro. Slight mix up with Safari company leads to us having to book our own room later on--- the driver was confused and took us to the wrong hotel.
Travel to Ngorongoro is brief. Lunch in the car with grey baboons on the hood. Drive up to the crater rim--- one of the best views I've ever seen. Olduvai Gorge and shifting sands both exciting, even though they don't let you go down into the gorge.
Dinner is delicious. The pineapple is amazing.
Played Spoono with some Australians, Brits, and a Kiwi. Mike's competitive nature got the better of him as he dove across the table.
Day 11:
Wake up cold due to camping on the crater rim without a sleeping bag. See day 1.
Descent into the crater is illuminated by sunbeams bursting through the clouds. Attempt to find Rhino fails, though we do see a cheetah in the far distance.
Arrival back to Arusha is uncomplicated. Stay at Arusha Centre inn is much nicer. Singapore soap opera---- incredible.
Day 12:
Depart Arusha Centre Inn for Arusha National Park. Confusion ensues as canoe guide is late. No matter as there are thousands of flamingoes to distract us.
Canoeing is refreshing. View of Mt Meru blocked by clouds. Drive to Moshi to be dropped off at Springlands Hotel. Arrive 5 minutes before briefing. Room is terrible, briefing good. Guide unmet. Substitute gives us advice instead.
Day 13:
Meet guide 5 minutes before bus departure. Buy way too many snacks that we continue to enjoy. Gate crowded. Panic and buy unnecessary rain cover for backpacks. Trek through the mud to reach new climate. Misidentify toilet as large orange bag. Toilet is in fact large orange bag.
Day 14:
Leave Machame camp behind and head straight uphill for next climate and Shira Camp. Meet a few Canadians and bond over love of Total Recall. Along with most of our stuff, the porters are sure to carry plastic flowers so that our table is not unadorned. Very important as the view of Mt. Meru is not enough.
Day 15:
Supplies of MILO and Cowbell run dangerously low. We press on to the lava tower. Intestinal issues begin to rear. Downhill from Lava Tower to Barranco Camp. We are surrounded by dewless giant succulents. 5am expedition to secure dew---unsuccessful.
Day 16:
Erin refuses to eat sausage after 15 days of sausage breakfasts. Short "3 hour" hike completed. Arrive before porters have finished setting up camp. Egos begin to swell----porters remain unimpressed. Sunset paints the entire sky orange. Dinner inside candlelit tent. Rice and deliciousness are served.
Day 17:
Second "3 hour hike" completed in 2 hours flat. Arrive at camp before slightly impressed porters. Meet Canadians descending from the summit. They are delerious. We are anxious to be delerious as well.
"Day" 18:
Awaken at midnight for tea and biscuits. Climb begins at 12:30am. Erin is dumbfounded as she actually has to remove a layer. Too warm you say!? Slope of volcanic ash and stone = 1 step foward, 2 steps back. Somehow we arrive at the summit. Guides insist we drink tea from quickly frosting mugs. Take celebratory pictures with fleeting batteries, and head back down as sun rises. Collect snow. Is this why Kilimanjaro's snows are disappearing?
Day 18:
Wake up. Did we just climb a mountain? Snow provides proof. As do legs upon hellish descent to Mweka Camp. Make note to kill whoever designed the trail. Rocks were not in fact the answer.
Dinner does not have to be run up the mountain by a porter. Banana empanadas are the standout.
Day 19:
Rush down mountain to beat mining company to gate. Receive "a golden ticket!" certifying our recent accomplishment. Bus back to Springlands. Pretend we didn't just climb the highest mountain on the continent and GO SHOPPING!
Day 20:
Bus to Mombo from Arusha leaves at 10am. Bus driver welds barin front of windshield midtrip to prevent glassy disaster. Random Frenchies accompany us on both taxis from Mombo to Lushoto. Half price! Arrive at internet cafe to update blog. Further adventures ensue...
Our apologies for the lack of posted pictures and sound. Internet here is too slow/expensive to update at this time. Should we miraculously encounter fast internet while on this continent, sights and sounds will be available. Otherwise, please maintain patience until we safely return to the states.
***Thank You!***
Day 10:
Left Arusha and the SG hotel (along with its French moulding and gawking wait staff) behind to head for Ngorongoro. Slight mix up with Safari company leads to us having to book our own room later on--- the driver was confused and took us to the wrong hotel.
Travel to Ngorongoro is brief. Lunch in the car with grey baboons on the hood. Drive up to the crater rim--- one of the best views I've ever seen. Olduvai Gorge and shifting sands both exciting, even though they don't let you go down into the gorge.
Dinner is delicious. The pineapple is amazing.
Played Spoono with some Australians, Brits, and a Kiwi. Mike's competitive nature got the better of him as he dove across the table.
Day 11:
Wake up cold due to camping on the crater rim without a sleeping bag. See day 1.
Descent into the crater is illuminated by sunbeams bursting through the clouds. Attempt to find Rhino fails, though we do see a cheetah in the far distance.
Arrival back to Arusha is uncomplicated. Stay at Arusha Centre inn is much nicer. Singapore soap opera---- incredible.
Day 12:
Depart Arusha Centre Inn for Arusha National Park. Confusion ensues as canoe guide is late. No matter as there are thousands of flamingoes to distract us.
Canoeing is refreshing. View of Mt Meru blocked by clouds. Drive to Moshi to be dropped off at Springlands Hotel. Arrive 5 minutes before briefing. Room is terrible, briefing good. Guide unmet. Substitute gives us advice instead.
Day 13:
Meet guide 5 minutes before bus departure. Buy way too many snacks that we continue to enjoy. Gate crowded. Panic and buy unnecessary rain cover for backpacks. Trek through the mud to reach new climate. Misidentify toilet as large orange bag. Toilet is in fact large orange bag.
Day 14:
Leave Machame camp behind and head straight uphill for next climate and Shira Camp. Meet a few Canadians and bond over love of Total Recall. Along with most of our stuff, the porters are sure to carry plastic flowers so that our table is not unadorned. Very important as the view of Mt. Meru is not enough.
Day 15:
Supplies of MILO and Cowbell run dangerously low. We press on to the lava tower. Intestinal issues begin to rear. Downhill from Lava Tower to Barranco Camp. We are surrounded by dewless giant succulents. 5am expedition to secure dew---unsuccessful.
Day 16:
Erin refuses to eat sausage after 15 days of sausage breakfasts. Short "3 hour" hike completed. Arrive before porters have finished setting up camp. Egos begin to swell----porters remain unimpressed. Sunset paints the entire sky orange. Dinner inside candlelit tent. Rice and deliciousness are served.
Day 17:
Second "3 hour hike" completed in 2 hours flat. Arrive at camp before slightly impressed porters. Meet Canadians descending from the summit. They are delerious. We are anxious to be delerious as well.
"Day" 18:
Awaken at midnight for tea and biscuits. Climb begins at 12:30am. Erin is dumbfounded as she actually has to remove a layer. Too warm you say!? Slope of volcanic ash and stone = 1 step foward, 2 steps back. Somehow we arrive at the summit. Guides insist we drink tea from quickly frosting mugs. Take celebratory pictures with fleeting batteries, and head back down as sun rises. Collect snow. Is this why Kilimanjaro's snows are disappearing?
Day 18:
Wake up. Did we just climb a mountain? Snow provides proof. As do legs upon hellish descent to Mweka Camp. Make note to kill whoever designed the trail. Rocks were not in fact the answer.
Dinner does not have to be run up the mountain by a porter. Banana empanadas are the standout.
Day 19:
Rush down mountain to beat mining company to gate. Receive "a golden ticket!" certifying our recent accomplishment. Bus back to Springlands. Pretend we didn't just climb the highest mountain on the continent and GO SHOPPING!
Day 20:
Bus to Mombo from Arusha leaves at 10am. Bus driver welds barin front of windshield midtrip to prevent glassy disaster. Random Frenchies accompany us on both taxis from Mombo to Lushoto. Half price! Arrive at internet cafe to update blog. Further adventures ensue...
Sunday, June 28, 2009
From Arusha with Love
We've made our way through two days of Dar es Salaam, and three days of safari in the Selous (pronounced Sell-oo) game reserve in the south of the country. Now we're in Arusha, ready to spend a few days exploring the northern parks before we attempt Kilimanjaro starting on the 2nd of July.
Here's a rundown of where we've been so far:
Day 1:
Flight from Denver to Houston. Flight in Houston delayed 9 hours due to electrical problems. This delay turns out to be exactly the delay needed in order to meet Jacob and Jessica in Amsterdam. Plus now the airline pays for the hotel!
Day 2:
With Jacob and Jessica in Amsterdam. Nearly walk into them at train station before seeing them. Eat at delicious restaurant with good pizza (not as good as Nostrana). J&J miss train; we share free hotel room (Holiday Inn) and play Coloretto and Battle Line.
Day 3:
Flight and arrival in Dar es Salaam. At Schipol, quote weight of bag in pounds, not kilograms, leading to confusion and potential overwieght baggage charge. Flight arrives in Dar, Mike's sleeping bag and pad do not. Clear customs, and miraculously a taxi driver (Frank) meets us at airport and drives us to hotel.
Day 4:
Confusion and culture shock in Dar. Locate cell phone shop, purchase cell phone and SIM card. Visit tourist information centre and obtain inaccurate map of city. Most tourists do not walk. Everybody here speaks English. Go for lunch at great Indian/Local place. Get called monkeys by irate taxi driver (mad we were walking?). Get quotes for safari in south--- most too expensive/incompatible with our desires.
Day 5:
Another early morning--- jet lag almost recovered from. Luther House chai provided by hostel is the only way to start the day. Will buy some before returning to States. Visited more safari companies--- attempted to book through Coastal Travel, but schedules all required return to Dar in the midst of safari. Instead, attempted to walk to Utalii safaris, recommended by Tourist Info lady. Mistake--- we ended up at the beach. Several phone calls later, they picked us up and drove us to their office (far away). Prices reasonable, seemed like it was not a scam. Booked.
Ordered lunch based on prices, and ended up with more food than we could eat in days.
Day 6:
Tour company definitely not a scam. Travel to Selous game reserve, past picturesque villages (no pictures--- blame Erin) and thousands (?) of tiny children who were the cutest ever. Lodge (hippo camp) is surprisingly spacious and comes with flush toilet and laughing hippos. (Never thought I'd be on a) Boat safari with guide Ali. See hippos (Osama bin Laden) and crocodile (George W Bush). Audio to come.
Dinner is more than we can eat.
Day 7:
Safari in Selous. Full day of driving--- giraffes are too trusting, zebra too skittish. Baobab tree is our lunch spot--- hugs ensue. After lunch: Lion, Buffalo, and more Impala and Giraffe. Sunset is spectacular--- orange and red across the yellow savanna.
Day 8:
Walking with guide Moses. We track an elephant through the bush, nearly get attacked. Only quick action by Moses ensures our survival. Half day game drive in afternoon--- we catch a glimpse of leopard, but he runs away before we could get camera out.
Day 9:
Today. Flew from Selous to Dar in tiny plane; Dar to Arusha in large plane. Muche cooler here. Mt. Meru beckons in the distance. Olduvai gorge tomorrow, and the shifting sands..... more to come after that.
See pictures at flickr:
(link to come)
Here's a rundown of where we've been so far:
Day 1:
Flight from Denver to Houston. Flight in Houston delayed 9 hours due to electrical problems. This delay turns out to be exactly the delay needed in order to meet Jacob and Jessica in Amsterdam. Plus now the airline pays for the hotel!
Day 2:
With Jacob and Jessica in Amsterdam. Nearly walk into them at train station before seeing them. Eat at delicious restaurant with good pizza (not as good as Nostrana). J&J miss train; we share free hotel room (Holiday Inn) and play Coloretto and Battle Line.
Day 3:
Flight and arrival in Dar es Salaam. At Schipol, quote weight of bag in pounds, not kilograms, leading to confusion and potential overwieght baggage charge. Flight arrives in Dar, Mike's sleeping bag and pad do not. Clear customs, and miraculously a taxi driver (Frank) meets us at airport and drives us to hotel.
Day 4:
Confusion and culture shock in Dar. Locate cell phone shop, purchase cell phone and SIM card. Visit tourist information centre and obtain inaccurate map of city. Most tourists do not walk. Everybody here speaks English. Go for lunch at great Indian/Local place. Get called monkeys by irate taxi driver (mad we were walking?). Get quotes for safari in south--- most too expensive/incompatible with our desires.
Day 5:
Another early morning--- jet lag almost recovered from. Luther House chai provided by hostel is the only way to start the day. Will buy some before returning to States. Visited more safari companies--- attempted to book through Coastal Travel, but schedules all required return to Dar in the midst of safari. Instead, attempted to walk to Utalii safaris, recommended by Tourist Info lady. Mistake--- we ended up at the beach. Several phone calls later, they picked us up and drove us to their office (far away). Prices reasonable, seemed like it was not a scam. Booked.
Ordered lunch based on prices, and ended up with more food than we could eat in days.
Day 6:
Tour company definitely not a scam. Travel to Selous game reserve, past picturesque villages (no pictures--- blame Erin) and thousands (?) of tiny children who were the cutest ever. Lodge (hippo camp) is surprisingly spacious and comes with flush toilet and laughing hippos. (Never thought I'd be on a) Boat safari with guide Ali. See hippos (Osama bin Laden) and crocodile (George W Bush). Audio to come.
Dinner is more than we can eat.
Day 7:
Safari in Selous. Full day of driving--- giraffes are too trusting, zebra too skittish. Baobab tree is our lunch spot--- hugs ensue. After lunch: Lion, Buffalo, and more Impala and Giraffe. Sunset is spectacular--- orange and red across the yellow savanna.
Day 8:
Walking with guide Moses. We track an elephant through the bush, nearly get attacked. Only quick action by Moses ensures our survival. Half day game drive in afternoon--- we catch a glimpse of leopard, but he runs away before we could get camera out.
Day 9:
Today. Flew from Selous to Dar in tiny plane; Dar to Arusha in large plane. Muche cooler here. Mt. Meru beckons in the distance. Olduvai gorge tomorrow, and the shifting sands..... more to come after that.
See pictures at flickr:
(link to come)
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Introduction
This blog is intended to serve as a record of a trip taken by Erin Lindstone and Mike Chaffin in Summer 2009 to Tanzania. Neither of them really knew what they were getting into.
We'll publish here reminescences and photos, as well as our audio diary we're making while we're on the road. We'll update as much as we can, but you never know when that might be. What do you expect? We're in Africa!
- Erin & Mike !!!! <3
We'll publish here reminescences and photos, as well as our audio diary we're making while we're on the road. We'll update as much as we can, but you never know when that might be. What do you expect? We're in Africa!
- Erin & Mike !!!! <3
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